Honda J-Series - Engine Swap - Honda Tuning Magazine
This Honda Civic with an Acura CL Type S V6 engine and GM supercharger takes the However, after this Civic ultimately met its maker and was totaled, someone came Honda Civic - Acura CL Type S swap. 53 rd annual LITTLE HERSHEY SWAP MEET & CAR SHOW at Boone County Fairgrounds May 19thth 6am-3pm Presented by Rockford Chapter. Fortunately, junkyard engines are cheap and Honda freaks never see an engine swap they don't like, so V6 Civic projects are available at.
The J32A is another good choice. There're plenty of these out there, with the Type S and newer engines being the next logical steps up. Like the older Accord's J30A1, pre-'00 engines have distributor ignitions.
The good news is that the Type S' extra power comes from a different intake manifold, cylinder heads, and camshafts, all of which can swap over to any ''02 non-Type S J30A or J32A. It's held in place by the original mount's bolts but must still be welded.
Arguably the easiest engine to find and the best bang for the buck, the ''04 Odyssey's J35A4 makes a whole lot of sense. It's rated at hp but that's on 87 octane.
Oh, it also already has the Type S heads and intake but with a spacer that helps shift the torque curve down. Honda sold nearly one million of these vans during those three years so finding one is easy. Of course, this is the engine API used in its '92 Civic. As you might expect, the newer engines present installation challenges of their own.
Project Car Hell, V6 Swap-Madness Edition: Alfetta or Civic? | Autoweek
First, there's the drive-by-wire throttle. It'll work, but the donor engine's corresponding harness, ECU, and accelerator pedal must all be used. Reverting back to a non-drive-by-wire setup is an option, but this requires the appropriate throttle body, cable, and ECU, all of which costs more money. It goes without saying that these newer, drive-by-wire engines are more expensive, even from the junkyards. It's little more than a riser and another familiar-looking billet mount.
The exhaust system is the other problem. Along with the drive-by-wire throttle, Honda developed integrated exhaust manifolds for the newer J-series, which is basically one big exhaust port that hangs off the back of each head.
Today, there are no downpipes offered for these applications since the catalytic converters bolt directly to the heads, but who knows what tomorrow will bring.
Honda didn't begin producing these until '03 and, even once they did, they only account for roughly five percent of its total J-series transmission production.
Have fun finding one. Both have six gears and are identical save for the Type S' mechanical limited-slip differential. But hunting for a Type S tranny won't seem all that bad when considering the amount of torque you'll be expecting your 2,pound Civic chassis to handle. No, It's Not Easy Ah, but this is a can of worms. The tough part is integrating the J-series engine harness with the Civic's chassis harness.
It's no surprise that the plugs are different, but the J's engine harness will also most likely be from an automatic. And, of course, the newer ECUs all have immobilizers.
First, sort out the ECU. To make things simple, get a non-drive-by-wire engine along with its matching ECU. Other ECUs can be used, but what does and doesn't work is still being sorted out.
To avoid the immobilizer hassle, be sure to get the key and immobilizer ring with the ECU. Simply bring in the title and most dealers will reprogram the ECU to match a new key. The immobilizer can then be wired appropriately and taped next to the ECU along with the key. You won't need to access these unless something goes wrong. It's easiest to use the donor engine's harness, but with vans made in Alabama, some Acuras and Accords in Ohio, and some random Japanese stuff thrown in just to make things complicated, there're many harnesses.
Some route into the cabin where they connect to the ECU, and some terminate inside the engine compartment, sort of like the ''95 Civic.
API used an ''03 automatic CL harness. If swapping a Type S engine, the Type S harness will be necessary to activate the multi-stage intake manifold. Unfortunately, the harness is loaded with stuff that the automatic transmission needs, so some labor is required to strip things away appropriately. Its power and sensor plugs terminate in the engine bay, while the ECU plugs route into the cabin--like the Civic. Originally made with the help of Hasport, it took pieces from five separate models to work but API's production kit will be offered with off-the-shelf pieces.
A great deal of work needs to be done here though. The harness needs power and must be grounded, and connections to the chassis harness need to be made as well as a few other odds and ends.
You could sit down with a pair of service manuals for a couple of weeks, or you could call API, who's already figured it all out. API offers a race harness with a pair of power leads, aftermarket tachometer connections, and cooling fan and temperature sensor outputs.
It's the same harness API uses on its sand rails but will also work for your Civic. To modify it for Civic use, API fits it with Civic plugs and connectors, and removes the automatic transmission nonsense. Nearly a third of the wiring is taken out. It takes both the Civic's original harness and the CL's to make it all happen--not too much different than a K swap.
API also offers speed sensor-compatible wiring harnesses, which is a huge bonus. Unfortunately, most ECUs are from automatics, which use different speed sensors than the manuals. Without the appropriate speed sensor input, VTEC won't work and, after running for a short time, will force the engine into limp mode.
The Axles And Shifter The axles began as a combination of about five different OEM pieces but, what with popped joints and broken pieces, a custom set was eventually made. API now offers axles that fit the ''00 Civic and ''01 Integra. They're good to whp and work with the J's stock manual transmission intermediate shaft, so make sure you get that with your six-speed should you go the manual trans-route.
And then there's the shifter. Similar to the H- and K-series swaps, the Js all use cable-operated shifter mechanisms. That means the appropriate cables and shifter box are required. The tricky part is mounting all of this. The shifter box must be mounted underneath the car and sealed off.
Only one of the original mounting bosses can be used. To make it all fit, API offers a mounting plate that securely fastens the box without modifying the console or anything else inside. It's so easy, even your old Civic shift knob will fit. Unlike Civics that use rod linkages, the J-series uses a cable linkage for shifting.
The whole assembly must be replaced. An '03 four-cylinder Accord's shifter and cables are mounted from underneath with a custom mounting and sealing plate. The Install Surprisingly, bolting in the J-series is as easy a swap as any, perhaps easier.
The Accord K24 is going to be the easiest to get and 95 percent of the time, the cheapest. They are just everywhere. We paid a bit more for our '05 unit, but it only had 35, miles on it.
Next, you're going to need an Accord five-speed and shifter box with cables. Unfortunately, the yards often don't care about the cables.
9 Popular Engine Swaps - Choose Wisely
They often will have the shifter, but 90 percent cut the cables on the tranny when just pulling two cotter pins would actually save the cables. So here's your big tip for getting the engine and trans. Try to work with one of the larger national yards like LKQ first. If you get lucky, they will still have something in a car and you can get it all in one shot. But their process works to just completely disassemble the cars as soon as they come in.
If you strike out with them, do a and try a local yard. Here is where you can talk to a counter guy who might actually enjoy cars and be interested in what you're doing. More often than not, in an attempt to save money, local shops won't pull anything until it's sold.
That means everything you need will still be in there. That's a good thing, because while you might find low prices and cherry stuff at the big box, you're going to get nickel and dimed to death like I did. The K24 came as a long block only. No accessories at all, and it even had a broken TPS. The transmission was also cheap and had low miles, but was just a transmission. Even an aftermarket clutch and flywheel was too much, so it was the local little guy Alma Imports to the rescue.
They let me walk the yard and we pulled a flywheel and clutch from an Element. We also took the complete engine harness both sections. That brings me to some of the electronics involved in this swap. Unfortunately we can't use the Accord engine harness. It splits in the engine compartment like an EH. The ''05 Element works too, but you'll have to re-pin it. It's similar to an OBD 2a and 2b system. The plugs are the same, but Honda shifted some of them around a bit.
Since Hasport did all the wiring, they performed the re-pinning ''06 RSX will also have to be re-pinned. The last piece here is ECU. The Accord and Element have the same engine.
The CRV is a little different. But it has the same pin-out as the RSX. Why not the Accord or Element? To get around the immobilizer and multi-plexer issue, K-Tuned came to the rescue with their little black box that kills them both.
9 Popular Engine Swaps - Super Street Magazine
This little beauty requires just four wires at the ECU, and two big problems are completely eliminated. The rest is basically the same stuff you'd encounter during an RSX-S swap. Same half shaft, same custom axles, same wiring conversion from Hasport or DIY, install is the same, and the swap header requirement yes, the K-Tuned swap header does clear, even with the taller K24 block.
Overall, it's about the same number hours to complete the work. But it has an immobilizer and expects a multi-plexor to be in the car. To get around that, K-Tuned has a little black box that worked perfectly for us.
View Photo Gallery 13 Photos This K-swap for the masses should make for a huge boom in the swap biz and breathe new life into some of the older chassis. And the torque output compared to a B16 is a night-and-day difference. In time, I'm sure it will be the same for this swap.